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Monstrous Beauty: A Feminist Revision of Chinoiserie

Iris Moon
2025
256 pages
172 illustrations
7.25 x 10.5 in
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Monstrous Beauty presents a bold cross-cultural history of porcelain told through a feminist lens. Prized for its delicate quality and whiteness, porcelain was first imported to Europe from China in the early modern period and gained lasting associations with Chinoiserie, a style that encapsulated associations of mystery and enchantment with Asia. This book probes the collective anxieties around gender, race, and sexuality lurking under the surface of this ornate style, derided by some eighteenth-century critics as monstrous and unnatural. In interconnected essays, Iris Moon unpacks Chinoiserie’s language of curiosity and exoticism. Here, close looking at garnitures, plates, tea cups and saucers reveals how the desire to collect and possess porcelain created entrenched cultural myths of the Asian woman, and how it later extended into such mediums as photography and film. In addition, sixteen readings by contemporary artists and scholars, of works ranging from the sixteenth century to the present, respond to this fraught history by asking how we can engage in meaningful dialogues about Chinoiserie today.

Baluster-shaped vase, Porcelain, Japanese, for export market (Hizen ware, Imari type)
Japanese, for export market (Hizen ware, Imari type)
ca. 1690–1720
Ladies Amusement: Or, The Whole Art of Japanning Made Easy, Jean Pillement  French, Illustrations: etching and engraving, hand-colored
Jean Pillement
Robert Sayer
1760
Title Page, from Des Pendants de Cleffs pour les Femmes, Johann Theodor de Bry  Netherlandish, Engraving and blackwork
Johann Theodor de Bry
1580–1600
Ewer (Brocca), Medici Porcelain Manufactory  Italian, Soft-paste porcelain, Italian, Florence
Medici Porcelain Manufactory
ca. 1575–80
Dish, Medici Porcelain Manufactory  Italian, Soft-paste porcelain decorated in underglaze blue, Italian, Florence
Medici Porcelain Manufactory
ca. 1575–87
Dish with Two Intertwined Dragons, Stonepaste; painted in blue under transparent glaze
ca. 1640
Two sweetmeat dishes, Doccia Porcelain Manufactory  Italian, Hard-paste porcelain, Italian, Florence
Doccia Porcelain Manufactory
ca. 1750–60
Ewer from Burghley House, Lincolnshire, Hard-paste porcelain, gilded silver, British, London mounts and Chinese porcelain
British, London mounts and Chinese porcelain
Chinese porcelain 1573– ca. 1585, British mounts ca. 1585
Cup and cover, Affabel Partridge  British, Porcelain, gilded silver, British, London mounts and Chinese porcelain
Affabel Partridge
Chinese porcelain, Ming dynasty, ca. 1507–66, British mounts ca. 1570
Two-handled bowl from Burghley House, Lincolnshire, Hard-paste porcelain, gilded silver, British, London mounts and Chinese porcelain
British, London mounts and Chinese porcelain
Chinese porcelain 1573– ca. 1585, British mounts ca. 1585
Beaker and saucer, Hard-paste porcelain, Chinese, for European market
Chinese, for European market
ca. 1700
Still Life with Fruit, Glassware, and a Wanli Bowl, Willem Kalf  Dutch, Oil on canvas
Willem Kalf
1659
From the Heart of the Mountain Anchored the Path of Unknowing, Heidi Lau, Glazed ceramic
Heidi Lau
2023
Vase with cover, Meissen Manufactory  German, Hard-paste porcelain, German, Meissen
Meissen Manufactory
ca. 1725
Vase with Women Enjoying Scholarly Pursuits

, Porcelain painted with colored enamels over transparent glaze, and gilded (Jingdezhen ware), China
China
late 17th–early 18th century
A Treatise of Japanning and Varnishing..., John Stalker  British, Illustrations: etching and engraving
John Stalker
George Parker
1688
Mirror with Jael and Barak, Satin worked with silk and metal-wrapped thread, beads, purl, mica, seed pearls; detached buttonhole variations, long-and-short, satin, couching, and straight stitches; wood frame, celluloid imitation tortoiseshell, mirror glass, silk plush, British
British
1672
Charger with double portrait of William III and Mary II, Tin-glazed earthenware (Delftware), Dutch, Delft
Dutch, Delft
ca. 1690
Chimney-Piece with Various Porcelain Vases, from Nouvelles Cheminées Faittes en Plusieur en Droits de la Hollande et Autres Prouinces, part of Œuvres du Sr. D. Marot, Daniel Marot the Elder  French, Etching
Daniel Marot the Elder
Pierre Husson
published 1703 or 1712
Hexagonal jar with Flower and Bird Decoration (one of a pair), Porcelain with overglaze enamels (Arita ware, Kakiemon type), Japan
Japan
late 17th century
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Moon, Iris. Monstrous Beauty: A Feminist Revision of Chinoiserie. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2025.